the small joy of cherries and pistachios

This dreary, gray February day was made a little bit brighter with the arrival of a package that I had ordered just yesterday. Dried cherries and pistachios from NutsOnline. Cherries may help improve joint health, and I have been feeling the cold in my joints this year, so I figured it wouldn't hurt to try the natural remedy. I ordered three varieties, so good.
And the pistachios are the good kind, imported antep. I am not getting paid to advertise this company, but their products are so good, and their customer service so superior, that I am adding them to my favorite places. Click on the title to link to the NutsOnline site.

DeWolf Tavern

Oyster Monday

This is my favorite home away from home.Every Monday night, the DeWolf Tavern offers oysters at the bar for $1.00 each. I usually eat a dozen, along with a shaken Hangar One keffir lime vodka.Their oysters are always fresh, and they usually have at least three varieties available, sometimes more. About a year ago they decided to keep the focus on east coast varieties, which was fine with me, for I have always preferred the briny crispness of Atlantic oysters to the mud and grassy undertones of the west coast! But wait! I will tell you about DeWolf Tavern now, and then create a new post to
wax poetic over my beloved oysters.

If you find yourself in Rhode Island, it is worth visiting the town of Bristol, and most definitely worth stopping in at the DeWolf Tavern for lunch or dinner. Built in 1818, used the building was a warehouse used by the DeWolf brothers as they shipped goods and humans for "triangle trade". years ago, when I first came to Rhode Island, the building was a hardware store. In the very back of the store's warehouse area it was possible to see the remains of what had been a holding area for humans. A very sad and despicable history, yes, but a part of our American history that must be acknowledged. The DeWolf Tavern does not hide the building's past, but neither does it exploit it. During renovations, 19th century graffiti were discovered etched onto the stonewalls of the building. These have been preserved and can be seen in the lobby and in the upstairs restaurant.

The drinks are somewhat expensive, and so are some of the emtrees' but they offer a variety of small plates, and from Monday through Thursday there is a $19.95 Prix Fixe 3-Course Dinner that includes a glass of beer or house wine. Most definitely a bargain. Taki and Thierry usually get the dinner, sweet fresh oysters are enough for me. But I usually get to taste a bit of everything and everything at this establishment is superb! (and no, I have no connection to them nor am I paid to say this!!!. Their homemade sorbets and ice creams are out of this world! I adore the blood orange sorbet, and that is the only one I cannot resist. I am not compelled to eat ice cream but some of the flavors are rather interesting- cardamom lavendar, fig port, even bacon toffee!
(I've linked the title of this post to their website, so you can see the menu!)

Big Sur Bakery and Restaurant: a Favorite Place

Click on title for more info and menu!
Recipe published in The New York Times:
Big Sur Bakery Brown Butter Peach Bars

For the jam:

1 cup sugar

Zest and juice of 2 oranges

½ vanilla bean, halved and seeds scraped

4 cups ½ inch diced, peel-on, peaches (about 2 pounds whole)

For the crust:

1 cup unsalted butter

½ cup confectioner's sugar, sifted

1 ½ cups flour

For the filling:

3 large eggs

1 cup sugar

Zest of 2 oranges

¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons flour

½ vanilla bean, halved and seeds scraped

10 tablespoons unsalted butter.

1. Make the jam: in a 3 quart pot and using a wooden spoon, mix together the sugar, orange zest and juice, and vanilla bean and seeds. Place a candy thermometer in the pot and set over medium heat. Bring to a boil and cook for a few minutes, until it reaches 220 degrees. Add the peaches and boil, stirring occasionally, until the peaches turn into a thick jam and the thermometer returns to 220 degrees, 35 to 45 minutes. Wear long oven mitts as the jam can splatter. (When the jam begins to stick to the bottom of the pan, it's nearly there). Transfer the jam to a wide pan to cool. Remove the vanilla bean.

2. Prepare the crust by melting the butter in a saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring frequently. Cook until the white milk solids start to brown and smell nutty, 5 to 10 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve set over a heatproof container. Freeze until solid.

3. In a large bowl, mix together the confectioner's sugar and flour. Scoop the chilled brown butter into the flour mixture and, using a pastry cutter, blend until crumbly. Transfer the crumb mixture to a 9-by-13-inch baking pan and firmly pat it evenly across the bottom of the pan. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Bake the crust until golden, 18 to 20 minutes. Let cool.

4. Make the filling: whisk together the eggs, sugar, zest and flour in a large bowl. Place the vanilla bean and seeds and the butter in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Cook until the white milk solids start to brown and smell nutty, and then strain through a fine sieve. Carefully add the brown butter to the egg and flour mixture, whisking until the butter is incorporated. Remove the vanilla bean.

5. To assemble the bars, spread half of the filling over the baked crust. Spoon large dollops of the peach jam over the filling, reserving a quarter of the jam. Pour the remaining brown butter filling over the peach jam, and finish by spooning smaller dollops of the reserved jam over the top. Bake until the filling is golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Cool completely. Makes 24 bars. All recipes adapted from Big Sur Bakery in Big Sur, Calif.

Favorite Places: Amfiliki

Amfiliki is a traditional restaurant located directly across from the Health Center, right by the playground and Aghias Triada. It overlooks Megali Ammos. Why is it a favorite place? Not just for the view. The food is very, very good. They use only local produce, something that unfortunately is becoming unusual, and the waiters are not rushed as they are in so many other places. This is a place with traditional Greek hospitality. They also have guest rooms, many with sea view.

Favorite Places: Tsougria

I will not get to Greece this year. It is breaking my heart, but it is true. When my mind must escape, this is where I go. Tsougria, a small island, is in the Aegean, just a short boat trip from Skiathos. At one time the people of Skiathos brought their olives here to be pressed. The press and outbuildings remain, but are in disrepair, crumbling. The island is now uninhabited, but boaters and tourists come for the day to swim at the beaches. The water is clear and it is the bluest of blues. A small monastery remains on the island, it is beautifully tended. Throughout the years many rich and powerful people have tried to buy this island, and they are still trying. In the seventies, the Beatles fell in love with the island. It is said that the song "Strawberry Fields" was written there. They tried to purchase the island. Fortunately, they did not succeed. Skeptics say that it is a matter of time before it is developed and turned into a money making property. I hope that never happens. There is one small operating taverna, open only during daylight hours. They serve excellent food, but, if you are lucky, they will also cook seafood that you have harvested yourself. From the shores it is not difficult to gather sea urchins. Perhaps even an octopus. I have been there with others that have brought in several small fish. What a treat that is! Fresh fishand other seafood, good Greek salad, a little ouzo, some ice cold beer, and for dessert some ripe fruit- watermelon, green melon, peaches, maybe some grapes. Heaven on Earth!

Favorite Places: le Bistrot

This is where I want to be on this lovely Saturday night in June. The Bistrot, is often our last stop of the evening-or should I say morning- high on the hill overlooking the old harbor. Although we had passed by the Bistrot every summer evening for years, we had favorite and regular places to go, and had never ventured in. We met the owner, Marco, in the festivities following Greece's victory in the EuroCup in 2004. He invited us to come join him for a drink one evening, and a few nights later we took him up on his offer. We have been regular, loyal customers ever since. It is where we often take guests for dinner, the food is among the finest on the island, and from the balcony there is an amazing view looking out over the harbor. Go for dinner, or go for a drink, it is a great place!

another favorite place

The Admiral Benbow
It may seem rather strange that in my longing for Greece I find my thoughts returning to a British Rock n Roll Bar. Maybe because it is Saturday today, and that is where I would like to be tonight. The Admiral Benbow does not have a water view, there is no live music, but the owners are always friendly and the place draws a great crows. I miss it!
If you find yourself in Skiathos, wander over to Polytechniou St. (some people call it Bar Street), and have fun!

Favorite Places: Monemvasia

I've decided to start writing about some of my favorite places. In no particular order, just when I think of someplace special, or stumble upon a photograph that inspires me to share a thought or two.
That's what happened today, I came across these photographs I took in Monemvasia (the two of the "rock") and my mind started drifting off to that mystical rock in the sea. I cannot even think the word "Monemvasia" without immediately following it with a line from Donoavan's song "First there is a mountain, then there is no mountain, then there is". Although Monemvasia is not exactly a mountain, with a few modifications the rest holds true. "First there is a village, then there is no village, then there is". The village of Monemvasia,whose name means "single entry" lies behind the rock in the photograph, virtually undetected. Monemvasia was once a thriving Byzantine settlement that rose to prominence as a trade and maritime center. The village withstood centuries of invasions and power struggles before becoming fully independent in 1821, the first Greek fortification to be reclaimed from the Turks.
An attenuated version of the village history can be found at www.Monemvasia-online.com

Today much of the original village has been restored. It exists primarily as a tourist destination, with only about 4,000 residents. The hotels on the "rock" are beautiful period pieces, although quite expensive.

Taki and I stay at the Filoxenia.
This hotel is very close to the "rock", and directly across the street from a lovely little swimming beach. Staying "off rock" in the little town of Gefyra is not only much less expensive, but also much less confining. The cobble streets of the old village become quite difficult to navigate after dark, and late night options are limited. The Filoxenia is within walking distance of many cafe, restaurants and tavernas. Our room had a lovely water view, I would definitely stay there again.


(for other hotels and more information, see Monemvasia information link at left)

arete's courtyard

Here are some of the things we see:
Yarn that Arete has spun by hand to be knitted into warm socks for winter. The large blue barrel that will collect precious rainwater (tap water is far to salty to drink or water plants and spring water must be carried infrom the central spring). Pots of basil scent the air and are used for seasoning. The ancient looking ceramic pot on the wall was one found by Arete's son Yiorgo, a fisherman and free diver. It isn't as old as it looks. He has found many interesting things deep in the Aegean. The wisteria bloom heavily in late spring and continue blooming all summer long. Beautiful, but Arete cpmplains about the flowers that drop and the large "boubounia", the bumblebees that buzz around the flowers. The geraniums do not usually die in the winter, despite the cold weather and occasional snow.
The white wall is back of the outdoor bathroom, the only one in the house, which means that in the dark of night or in winter she must go down the steps from house to courtyard and to "the place". It is becoming more difficult for her to manage.
And here is Arete:


Arete lives in Taki's family house. It was built at the beginning of the twentieth century and looks much the same as it must have in those days. In fact, a Greek television station filmed a commercial in it, because it was so perfectly representative of a particular era in the island's history. Arete and her daughter Melpo are weavers. They have their looms in the lower part of the house that opens onto the narrow alley. Arete does not weave anymore, but Melpo continues to produce gorgeous handwoven rugs.
Every morning Taki and I have coffee with Arete.

Athena

I love Athens. Sometimes I really, really hate Athens, but usually I love it. Noisy, smoggy beautiful, beautiful Athens.
For just one night I would love to experience the Hotel Britannia, but that is highly unlikely, I know Taki just would not do that. Besides, the hotel where we stay while in the city, the Cypria (formerly the Dio Mia) is excellent. If we can still afford to stay there. Through the years we have watched this hotel change and grow, never quite knowing what to expect from year to year. A few times we have stayed at other, less expensive small hotels, such as the Nefeli or the Acropolis House,but the Cypria is our home when we are in Athens.
Despite the cost and potential aggravation that is Athens, it is worth the effort to spend enough time to visit the major sites and museums. We have branched out so that we now visit smaller and lesser known museums and attractions. Sometimes we just walk and look at things and people. We do not go to the national museum every year anymore, but we do try to get to the Benaki. The first time Taki saw Kavafy's actual notebooks he was moved to tears. A fan of Bouboulina, I seek out her exhibit. And what we love about this museum is that unlike so many others with their overiced fast food cafeterias, the Benaki has a magnificent restaurant on the roof overlooking the city. A touch of ouzo, a salmon or procuitto sandwich and then a short walk back to the hotel. We usually eat dinner in the Plaka despite its reputation for being a tourist rip-off. The Platanos has been operating for so long, and it is just so much fun, that we never regret an evening meal there. We also like Xinos, Ok the food is inconsistent and nothing special but the outdoor dining garden is VERY special and they usually have live music- the same guys that have been playing there for at least 10 years. And then after eating ist is fun to move on to the livlier nextdoor Glykos for after dinner Metaxa. From the sour to the sweet. A younger crowd,when the stars line up right it can be fun.

O Xinos

faces of the gauntlet: skiathos