I've decided to start writing about some of my favorite places. In no particular order, just when I think of someplace special, or stumble upon a photograph that inspires me to share a thought or two.
That's what happened today, I came across these photographs I took in Monemvasia (the two of the "rock") and my mind started drifting off to that mystical rock in the sea. I cannot even think the word "Monemvasia" without immediately following it with a line from Donoavan's song "First there is a mountain, then there is no mountain, then there is". Although Monemvasia is not exactly a mountain, with a few modifications the rest holds true. "First there is a village, then there is no village, then there is". The village of Monemvasia,whose name means "single entry" lies behind the rock in the photograph, virtually undetected. Monemvasia was once a thriving Byzantine settlement that rose to prominence as a trade and maritime center. The village withstood centuries of invasions and power struggles before becoming fully independent in 1821, the first Greek fortification to be reclaimed from the Turks.
An attenuated version of the village history can be found at www.Monemvasia-online.com
Today much of the original village has been restored. It exists primarily as a tourist destination, with only about 4,000 residents. The hotels on the "rock" are beautiful period pieces, although quite expensive.
Taki and I stay at the Filoxenia. 
This hotel is very close to the "rock", and directly across the street from a lovely little swimming beach. Staying "off rock" in the little town of Gefyra is not only much less expensive, but also much less confining. The cobble streets of the old village become quite difficult to navigate after dark, and late night options are limited. The Filoxenia is within walking distance of many cafe, restaurants and tavernas. Our room had a lovely water view, I would definitely stay there again.
(for other hotels and more information, see Monemvasia information link at left)
Skopelos and Virgin
-by Skorda
when first you see it
across the water,
rising round and new above the mountain.
Open your mouth and swallow
while youth holds its roundness near,
and you are running fearless in the dark.
Hold it inside, it is still warm
and you will need its light,
there, inside you.
Down the road of time, somewhere
after you’ve aged, traveled,
Explored, discovered.
And the dust around your doorway
has been pounded hard and smooth under your feet.
When you find yourself growing weary and bored,
when your eyes see only ruins,
and your heart is empty.
You may believe, in your exhaustion,
that this is truth, at last.
That the mystery has unraveled,
leaving no wilderness to explore or tame.
All secrets have been shared,
the frontier has dissolved.
Know then, with these thoughts,
you have been swallowed.
The warm belly of the beast
comforts with confining darkness
and lulls with rhythmic sounds
Murmuring to you,
Curl up and sleep,
just go to sleep.
Shake your head,
stretch your legs,
do not sleep now.
Remember what you know.
You swallowed the moon,
you hold it inside you.
Not as a magpie hoarding shiny things,
or wearing the moon for beauty
or bartering the moon for wealth.
You swallowed the moon for this moment.
When you will walk to the water’s edge,
open your mouth, release the moon
and let its light build you a pathway
across the wine dark sea.
©Skorda 2008
Thursday, April 17, 2008
Favorite Places: Monemvasia
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